Jon & Jo's personal guide for visitors
Uber or Bolt are best for taxis from the airport and are very cheap compared to other countries.
They tend to pick up from the departures "Kiss and Fly" drop-off parking area, which is a floor above arrivals. To get there, turn right out of arrivals (while still inside the building) and head for the escalators. Go up a floor, then out the external doors — Kiss and Fly is directly opposite.
We tend to use Zest Car Rental — reliable and good value.
Where our home is
Lovely, airy, reasonably priced boutique run by a Danish couple, right in the centre of ancient, cobbly Graça. He used to run Universal Jazz record label in Denmark — and until recently, they also ran a guest house in Kathmandu.
Every room is different, and there's a lovely little oasis garden — all right next to one of the best viewpoints in Lisbon. If you want to waste no time getting out and walking the cobbles, this is the place. We love it.
More upmarket, right in the heart of Alfama — the neighbourhood where Fado music was invented.
Jon's favourite activity — wander from viewpoint to viewpoint across the city. Each one offers a completely different panorama. Guide to viewpoints · Map them
Stroll along the castle ramparts with incredible panoramic views, then wander the streets of Alfama — the iconic neighbourhood where Fado music was born.
A traditional sour cherry liqueur — try it in a chocolate cup for the full experience!
Drink coffee and admire the view. Visit museums and shows. Or cross the bridge to Costa da Caparica for 26 km of Atlantic beach. Browse free things to do in Lisbon for more inspiration.
Superb local fish restaurant — the fish doesn't come fresher. White-tiled interior with a counter and bar. Locals come to eat, drink and watch the footie. (No fishing Sundays — Monday is slim pickings.)
Brunch with amazing views.
Rooftop bar — food and drinks.
Rooftop bar — drinks only.
Amazing vegetarian restaurant on romantic cobbled streets.
Great coffee and brunch.
The Portuguese Riviera
Between Lisbon and the Sintra mountains lies "the Portuguese Riviera" — Portugal's answer to Nice and Cannes. In Sintra we wear walking boots; in Cascais we swap for heels — or if you're more sensible on the cobbles, flats.
James Bond was inspired by a Serbian double agent operating out of Estoril Casino during World War II. King Edward and Mrs Simpson set up camp in Estoril when he abdicated. And Guincho beach was the setting for the opening scenes of On Her Majesty's Secret Service.
Nowadays this affluent area is where Portuguese footballers buy their mansions and expats are drawn for the international schools, close proximity to Sintra's wild nature, countless beaches, and the bustle of Lisbon nearby. While it's the most touristy area listed here, it's opulently so rather than tacky — the back streets are filled with small restaurants to discover, with easy access to golf clubs, a fabulous marina and decent nightlife.
Superb coffee and cakes at a coffee shop that's also a radio station — by a lighthouse.
Mountains, palaces & wild Atlantic
A small mountain range with a national park — and where our work is based. Wild Atlantic coast, ancient forest, historic palaces, and a town full of follies. Our studio/office is a 15-minute drive out of the old town, on a country estate.
A B&B just 100 yards from our place. A historic cottage in the countryside — you'd need a lift or taxi back into Sintra town (15 mins) for sightseeing, but it's a different vibe if you prefer forest walks over tourist bustle.
In the centre but a little further out (10 mins walk), so quieter. Beautiful gardens, pool.
A real-life Disney palace with extraordinary gardens — including an inverted tower that spirals down into the ground. Loads of mystery surrounding the Knights Templar and the forested hills it's set into.
Climb to the mountain top for the colourful Pena Palace and a perfectly preserved 12th-century Moorish castle with sweeping views.
A romantic English-designed palace beloved of Byron, set in beautiful botanical gardens.
The most westerly point in continental Europe. Dramatic cliffs, crashing waves, and a real sense of being at the edge of the world.
Wander the winding streets, explore the follies, and hike in the national forest.
A fabulous restaurant and bar high on a cliff with incredible views of Guincho beach and Cascais, set in a tropical garden. It's not possible to book and there are often queues — weekdays are recommended if possible.
26 km of beaches across the bridge from Lisbon
Beach-land on the south bank of the Tagus — cross the bridge from Lisbon and you'll find 26 kilometres of Atlantic coastline. Best reached by taxi or car hire from the airport.